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Dana den Hertog is a young Dutch female that came to explore the Bocas del Toro area. She wrote this travel article in Dutch once she returned to The Netherlands. ANCON.
Published: 22 Aug 2003



Poisonous frogs and banana hospitals

The ferry boat anchors in a somewhat delapidated dock. Local inhabitants step out of the boat with bags full of groceries and the foreign visitors manieuver with their backpacks. As the last one I stand now on the main street of the town of Bocas del Toro, the head of the province of the same name.

In the case of Bocas del Toro when you hear head of province you should not think of busy streets and skycrappers. With only about 800 inhabitants this town offers above all peace and little more than one asphalted road. The road is flanked by shops and houses in Caribbean style with a lot of woodwork where you -as a tourist- can sleep for only a few dollars per night in a family pension. And this I mean literally because I am now in my "hotel room", conveniently placed between the toilet and the kitchen of this family house.

The history of the islands of Bocas is closely bound to nature and in particular bananas. In the 20th century the standard of living in the islands was closely related to how the banana business was doing. At the time is was run by the United Fruit Company [Tr. Yes, think of Chiquita bananas]. In the meantime a lot has changed and the people are more geared towards nature, conservation and ecotourism. The old head office of the Company has been converted to a hotel, where I drink my tropical cocktails every night on the balcony, looking out the calmed caribbean sea.

During the day Bocas is less decadent and therefore many visitors concentrate on sport and nature. Scuba diving and snorkeling are at the top of the list of many people so I decided to take part in this. I pedal with a canoe and a snorkel towards Hospital Point, jump off my boat and land with my googled-nose in the middle of fishes.

CallidryaBocas also has a lot to offer for those interested in nature, just ten minutes further on is Bastimentos Island which is a top location, or at least I am told so. So I visit it a day later on land and walk into the town. After a few steps I am already out of the town and disappear into the tropical vegetation. The rainy season hits very hard and the beauty of the environment passes me by because the mud path is requires all my attention.

In spite of all the difficulty, I come out of the jungle a short while later looking like a mud zombie only to be presented with a view that takes my breath away. Kilometers of white beaches, palm trees and sea water crawling on your toes. There is nobody in the vicinity, there is total peace with the exception of the sounds of the water and the birds, combined with the tiny brightly colored poisonous frogs that attempt to hide themselves within the leaves. I sink slowly into the white, soft sand and make a wish: If only my name was Robinson Crusoë.

Copyright ©2003 Dana den Hertog (The Netherlands)


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